Local guide

Things to do in Merzouga and Erg Chebbi

Merzouga is a small village next to a very large sand sea, and almost everything worth doing sits within half an hour of it. This is the list we give friends, in the order we would actually do them.

1. Ride a quad across Erg Chebbi

The fastest way to understand the scale of the erg. In one hour you cross more dune country than a half-day camel trek reaches, and you get to the ridges the group tours never leave the road for.

No licence and no experience are needed, and the price is per quad rather than per person.

2. Camel trek to a desert camp

Slow, silent and completely different from the quad. Leave in the late afternoon, watch the sun go down from a high dune and sleep under more stars than most people have ever seen.

Do both if you can — the quad in the morning, the camel at sunset. They are not competing activities.

3. Sandboarding on the dunes

Included on our one-hour ride. The guide picks a slope that matches your nerve, from a gentle first run to something considerably steeper.

4. Khamlia and Gnawa music

Seven kilometres south of Merzouga, Khamlia is home to descendants of Sub-Saharan communities who kept their music alive. An afternoon session with the Pigeons du Sable is the most memorable hour many visitors have in the region.

5. Sunrise from a high dune

Free, and better than almost anything you can pay for. Walk out from the village edge before first light — twenty minutes of climbing gets you a horizon of nothing but sand.

6. Dayet Srji lake and flamingos

A seasonal salt lake west of the dunes. After a wet winter it fills and draws flamingos and other migrating birds; in a dry year it is a white crust worth seeing for its own strangeness.

7. Fossils at Erfoud and Rissani

This desert was a sea. The workshops around Erfoud cut and polish 380-million-year-old marine fossils, and the Rissani souk on Sunday, Tuesday and Thursday is one of the last genuinely local markets in the south.

8. Visit a nomad family

Families still move with their goats around the edges of the erg. Where they are camped nearby and happy to receive visitors, a stop for mint tea is part of our half-day route.

9. The Mifis mines and the black desert

South of the erg the sand gives way to dark, stony hamada and the old kohl mines at Mifis. It is a stark, cinematic landscape that few visitors see.

10. Day trips: Todra Gorge and Ziz Valley

If you have a spare day, the Todra Gorge is around four hours away, and the Ziz Valley palm oasis on the road north from Errachidia is worth stopping for on the way in or out.

Frequently asked questions

Things to do in Merzouga and Erg Chebbi

How many days do you need in Merzouga?

Two nights is the sweet spot: a full day for the dunes, a night in a desert camp and time for Khamlia or Rissani. One night works if you arrive early.

What is the best month to visit Merzouga?

October to April. March and October are close to perfect. July and August are very hot in the middle of the day, though early-morning riding is still excellent.

Is Merzouga worth visiting?

Erg Chebbi is the largest and most dramatic dune field in Morocco and the easiest to reach. If you want the Sahara of the imagination rather than a stony desert, yes.

Ready to ride Erg Chebbi?

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